EVO1: Alkuperäinen kunnostusprojekti 2009-2010

EVO1: Initial restoration project 2009-2010

• Lähtökohta
  Starting point
• Linssien kiillotus
  Lens polishing
• Vaihtoehto kromaukselle
  Alternative to chroming
• Alumiinin kiillotus
  Polishing aluminium
• Kojelaudan uusinta
  Rebuilding dashboard
• Lämmityslaitteen entisöinti
  Restoring the heater unit
• Apuva: Ruostetta löytyi!
  Help: Rust found!
• Lämmittimen takaisinasennus
  Reinstalling the heater unit
• Pääsylinterin kunnostus
  Restoring the master cylinder
• Jarruputkien teko
  Making brake pipes
• Virranjakaja
  Distributor
• Moottori
  Engine
• Kaasuttimet
  Carburators
• Laturi
  Dynamo
• Vesipumppu
  Water pump
• Jäähdytin
  Radiator
• Verhoilua
  Interior trimming
• Moottorin irrotus
  Engine removal
• Vaihdelaatikon purkaminen
  Dimantiling gearbox
• Jarrusylinterit
  Brake cylinders
• Vaihdelaatikon kasaus
  Gearbox re-assembly
• Moottoritilan maalaus
  Painting engine bay
• Uusi moottori
  New engine

Sisustan purkaminen / Stripping down the interior

Auton historiatiedon selvittäminen on vielä kesken mutta auto on peräisin Californiasta josta se on tuotu Suomeen joskus 1990-luvun alussa.
Tarkoitus OLI ainoastaan hieman fiksata paikkoja ja sitten vain kovaa ajoa.  No, minut tuntien ihan näin ei tullut tapahtumaan.

Starting point:
Interior trimming was in quite good condition but partially worn.  Carpets were not original looking in shape nor color.  Dashboard was quite a mesh as it had lot of extra scwithes having no function behind them.  Speed and rev gauges did not function properly.  The seats were too soft and not very sturdy.  All aluminium parts were schratchy or corroded.

History of the car is still under investigation.  Sofar I know that it originates from California USA from where it was sold to Finland around 1990.  The initial  purpose was just to fix some minor details and then just have fun driving it.  Well, this is not quite what happened then ...

Istuimien ongelma selvisi samantien: selkänojien peltirungot olivat revenneet ja siksi taipuivat miten sattuivat.  Istuimet eivät liikkuneet mihinkään säätökiskoissa, koska kiskot olivat pultattu kiinni väärin.

At this stage all floor mats, instrument and window frames are removed.  Not until now I finally could believe that there is absolutely not rust in the car.  What a pity as I just love welding and metal working (just joking).

The problem with the seats was that their frames had broken. Also they didn't move at all as they had been bolted to the body in a wrong way.

Kuvasta näkyy hyvin kuinka lattiapellit ovat täysin alkuperäisessä kunnossa.  Mitään massaa ei ole käytetty.

At the end I ripped off everything from the interior including all wirings.  The wirings were so 'modified' that it would have been impossible to restore them.   Wiring is so simple that I didn't bother to mark which cable goes were.  I just cut the whole looms off.  New wiring loom is available at reasonable cost.

In the picture you can see well how the floor panels are in original condition.  No weldings, no rust.

Linssien kiillotus/Lens polishing

All the lenses were schratcy and the colors faded.  You can obtain new ones quite cheap but restoring them is quite easy and cheap too.  All lenses were polished with waxes.  Two grades of waxes were used and it takes some 10 mins to achieve this shiny lenses.  You can see that the MG is a USA version as the indicator lense is red - not yellow as in UK or Finland.  Also you could spot the manufacturing year (1961) at the bottom of the lense.  Lucas tail lenses often have this year marked.

Vaihtoehto kromaukselle/Alternative method to chroming

Chroming is almost a mission impossible in Finland due to different RoHS regulations.  There are only a few big companies left and they are not so interested in chroming car parts.  In my MG project I had decided to everything myself and this chroming issue seemed to be impossible to do yourself.  I decided to test a different approach to hand brake lever.

The clue is that the parts are bright nickel plated as done in the 1950's.  I had previously purchased the equipment for this from Frost UK.  I let the parts be in the nickel solution for 24 hours so that a relative thich layer of nickel was built.  After this I removed the extra nickel by sanding it with 60-120 grid sand papers, steel wool and finally polished with waxes.  You can't see the difference to chrome even looking very it closely.

Alumiinin kiillotus/Polishing aluminium

Varoitus: Käytä aina hyvää hengityssuojainta alumiinia työstäessäsi ja huolehti hiontapölyn poistamisesta.
Warning: Always use a good quality respitory protection when working with aluminium. 
 

MG:n etumaski on lähes kokonaan alumiinia ja siten sen hymy oli melko huonossa hapessa.  Tiesin että edessä on kova savotta, mutta tällä kertaa päätin hieman oikaista ja käyttää brutaaleja keinoja.
The front grill of a MG is mostly of aluminium and as such in bad condition.  I knew that restoring them would be a major job and decided to use 'brutal' methods this time.

At the rear you can see the original parts, at the left heavily sand blasted part and at the right the final part.  After sand blasting you can straighten all dents with hammer and also the mostly corroded spots so that the spot is slightly recessed.  Then it is just heavy sanding - you can really sand away as much material as you want.  Watch out that you maintain the original curves and shapes when sanding.  After sanding you use steel wool and the final touches by polishing waxes.  The final part looks like chromed!

Kojelaudan uusinta/Rebuilding dashboard

Kojelauta oli hieman hämmentävä kaikkine vipuineen ja nuppeineen.  Varsinkin kun suurin osa oli turhia eikä kytketty mihinkään.  Muutama ilta tuli kokeiltua sommitella uusia kytkimiä vanhoihin reikiin, mutta lopputulos oli aivan sekava. Pakkohan se oli sitten uudistaa ja samalla koko kojelaudan layout.  Ei muuta kuin rälläkällä koko keskiosa pois ja hitsaten uusin pelti ja sitten sommettulua ja paljon poraamista.

Tämä on sen verran pitkä tarina, että katso yksityiskohtaiset vaiheet täältä PDF-tiedostosta  ...

The dashboard was quite confusing as it had extra switches and they were located afterwards quite randomly.  I tried to relocate new switches and gauges using the old holes but they didn't look good.  I just had to redesign and rebuild it.  It started by brutally cutting off the center piece of the panel and then welding a new blank palte.  After that it was easy to drill holes for the switches as meters.

This is a very long story and you can read about it from this PDF file ...

 

Aitoutta pilaamaan asensin kojelautaan liudan merkkivaloja: öljynpaine, jännite, vilkku ja sumuvalot.  Ne jäävät lähes piiloon sivusta päin katsottuna.

Here is the restored dashboard installed and almost rewired.  Wiring is very challenhing for me as I'm almost color blind.  Luckily Mr. Lucas has used quite simple color coding.  Except the bloody green an it's combinations!

I installed indicator lamps for oil pressure, voltage, indicator and front fog lights.  This is not original way but quite practical.

Lämmittimen kunnostus/Rebuilding the heater unit

Autoon on asennettu aikanaan valinnaisvarusteena ollut lämmityslaite.  Sinällään mielenkiintoista, koska kyseessä on californialainen avoauto?  Koko lämmitinyksikkö oli päällystetty tervankaltaisella massalla ja epäilys heräsi, onkohan sen alla aivan kaikki ihan kunnossa.  No ei aivan ... Vaihteeksi kunnostus on pitkä tarina ja löytyy täältä PDF-tiedostona ...

The car has an optional heater installed which is quite odd as the car is from California.  The whole heater unit was covered with some thick black 'stuff' and this was quite suspicious.  Correct - it was used to cover broken parts.  Once again the restoration story is long that you can read about this from this PDF file ... (in Finnish only for time being)

Ruostetta löytyi / Rust found !

Juuri kun olin tyytyväisenä todennut, että auto on täysin ruosteeton, löytyi oikein kunnollinen ruostepesä konehuoneesta lämmityslaitteen alta.  'Joku' fiksu oli aikanaan korjannut reikiä peittämällä ne alumiinilevyllä ja laittamalla tämän päälle tukuisan pikimaton.  Eihän se ruostuminen siellä alumiinin alla lopu ja tässä vaiheessa alla oleva pelti on paperinohutta.  Lumipalloefekti oli siis valmis: ei olisi kannattanut irroittaa lämmityslaitetta!

Restoring the heater started a long series as further repairs!

Just when I was enjoying that this car has absolutely no rust all, did I found a very big rusted area.  The place was the 'shelf' on which the heater and battery stand.  Someone had tried to cover rusted places by covering them with riveted aluminium sheets and a thick insulating mat.  Well, rusting doesn't stop in this way and after ripping off insulating mats and aluminium, the sight was not beatiful.  This is a typical situation in restoration: when you fix something this will generate more fixings to be done.
 

Aika hirvittävän näköistä jälkeä.  Alue oli täynnä sormen mentäviä reikiä ja siitä olisi lyönyt nyrkillä lävitse.  Onneksi alue oli erittäin yksinkertainen muodoltaan.  Sen verran olen oppinut Jagge-projektissa, että tällaisen korjaamiseen on vain yksi oikea tapa: leikkaa koko ruostunut paneli/pelti pois - ei siis pelkästään ruostuneita kohtia.

Peltiä on leikattu niin paljon pois kunnes reunoilta tuli vastaan tuoretta peltiä.  Itseasiassa olisi pitänyt porata vanhat pistehitsit pois, jolloin koko 'hylly' olisi saatu irroitettua.  Tähän ei kuitenkaan riittänyt tilaa, koska moottori on kiinni.

Awful looking sight!  The panel was full of rusted finger sized holes and steel panel had almost rusted totally away.  Luckily the area was quite simple in shape.  Something I have learned during my Jaguar-project that I know that there is only one right method to fix this: cut the whole panel off - not just the rusted spots.

As much rusted panel as possible is cut away here.  In practice your should drill off the old spot welds in order to remove the whole panel.  The engine is in place and this would have been impossible.

Tein pellistä ensin pahvimallineen ja sitten varsinaisen levyn 0.9 mm levystä.  Levyn reunat on taivutettu kolmelta sivulta jäykkyyden lisäämiseksi.  Levyt hitsataan 'pistehitsillä' ja pellissä on valmiiksi lävistettyinä 5mm reikiä näitä varten.  Tämä oli ensimmäinen itse tekemäni isompi korjauspelti ja tunsin itseni oikein ylpeäksi, kun se istui kerralla paikalleen.

Korjauspellin alle jäävä osuus on pohjamaalattu hartsi-/happoprimerilla, jotta ruostumimen taatusti pysähtyy.

First I made a sablone from card board and after this cut the peace from a 0.9mm steel plate.  The plate has three edges bent in order to get it stiffer.  This was my very first panel I have made and feeled quite proud as the result looked professional.

The area under the new panel is painted with acid primer in order to stop further rusting.  The panel was then spot welded in place with a MIG.

The welded panel was hammered tightly between the welds so that there wouldn't be any pocket holes for moisture.  The new panel was covered with new insulating mat but this time lighter one.  The mat is only on the flat part and not bent to the walls.  The bendings tend to have air pockets which are optimal places for moisture.
The insulation mat is welded into place with a hot air gun.  This in the only right way to do it.  The existing tared surface as mostly like a joke.  You heat the mat slowly until it starts getting soft and then press it tightly so that there is absolutely not air pockets.  The edges can be almost melted to 'tar' and then formed more flat.

Notice the trick how to get a nice hole: heat the mat after it has otherwise cooled down.  Then heat again but this time near the whole.  The mat will almost drop to the hole.  Don't overheat: just so that it starts bending in.  After cooling it is very easy to cut the whole into perfect shape with a utility knife.
 

Saumojen viimeistely tuli tehtyä tällä kertaa siveltävällä saumausmassalla, jonka voi päällemaalata.  Mössön avulla kaukalosta tuli täysin vesitiivis.  Olennaisinta on peittää mössöllä kohdat, joissa pystypelti ja uusi pistehitsattu pokkaus kohtaavat.  Tämä on varma paikka ruosteelle, jos vesi pääsee valumaan niiden väliin.  Massa kuivaa mutta jää elastiseksi.  Pikaruiskaus maalia sen päälle ja massaa ei huomaakaan.

The finishing touch was made with brushable seam sealer.  This can be painted over.  The goal was to get a totally waterproof 'box'.  Specially places where two metal sheet overlap must be treated this way.  After drying it was painted and no one will spot the sealer anymore.

Lämmittimen asennus / Installing back the heater unit

Seuraavaksi pääsikin asentamaan kunnostettua lämmityslaitetta takaisin.  Kuvassa näkyy (ainoa) oikeaoppinen tapa kiinnittää runko-osa.  Kehyksen päissä on 1/4" kiinnitysruuvit, mutta nämä eivät tiivistä kehyspeltiä keskeltä.  Kiinnitys tapahtuu sisäpuolelta 4-6 kpl  peltiruuvilla, jotka kiristetään juuri sen verran että neopreenitiiviste alkaa painumaan kasaan.  Älä kiristä liikaa, koska tiivisteen pitää olla joustava.  Kyllä se pitää ilman ylenmääräistä kiristämistä.

Finally is was time to intall the restored heater unit into place.  In the picture you see the only correct way to install the heater element body.  There are two 1/4" bolts at both ends of the frame but these will not tighten the seal in the middle.  You must use 4-6 screws inside as seen here.  Don't overtighen them as the seal must be flexible.  It will be tight without overtightening the screws!

Tässä alkaa olemaan valmiina koko rintapellin tienoo.  Oikealla kiiltelee kunnostettu pyyhkijän moottori ja lumipalloefektin myötä kunnostettu jarru/kytkimen pääsylinteri.  Tästä enemmän seuraavassa jutussa.

Kontrasti rupuisen moottorin ja kunnostettujen kohtien välillä on räikeä.

Here is the engine bay rear area almost finished.  At the right you can spot the restored wiper motor and brake/clutch master cylinder.  More about restoring the master cylinder in the next story.

Pääsylinteri / Master cylinder

The master cylinder was very rusty and thus the whole brake and clutch system could be in similar condition.  By taking a look inside the brake fluid reservoir confirmed this as there was more water than brake fluid.  The clutch pipe even broke after slight bending of it.  Well, let fix it!
 

Tässä pääsylinteri kiinnikkeineen irroitettuna.  Kiinnike oli vaihteeksi 'tervattu' kiinni ja ei lähtenyt irti kuin talttaamalla massat pois.  Kiinnike oli melkoisen ruostunut, koska sen pohjalle kertyy vettä.

Pääsylinterissä oli mystinen letkuyhde, jolle en keksinut mitään järkevää käyttötarkoitusta.  Ei sitä näkynyt missään osakuvassakaan.  No purkamisen yhteydessähän se viimeistään selviää.

Here is the master cylinder removed.  Not an easy job as the fixing frame was clued throughly into place.  The frame was very rusty as water will stay at the bottom of it.  The master cylinder has a mysterious hose connector and I couldnä't figure out what it was for.  Well, after dismantling this mystery could be solved.

Osiksi purettu pääsylinteri - hyvin simppeli. Kaikki osat on hiekkapuhallettu ja kierteet uusittu. Sylinterit olivat hapettuneet ja piti hoonata sileiksi.  Normaali Bilteman hoonauspää oli liian suuri, joten käytin viritelmää karkea hiontavilla käärittynä putken ympärille.  Kannattaa hoonata ihan reilusti kunnes pinnat ovat tasaiset.

Dismantled master cylinder.  Simple in structure.  Parts were sand plasted and channels cleaned.  All threads were re-threaded in order to help the assembling. The cylinders were quite rusty and had to be honed.  My normal honing stone was too large and used a improvised steel wool wrapped around a tube.
 

Tässä kunnostettu sylinteri.  Se letkunippa oli pelkkä reiän täyte.  En ymmärrä, miksi tuollainen reikä on pitänyt porata?  Vaihdoin letkunipan tilalle nätimmän 1/2" messinkitulpan.  Onneksi kaikki kumitiivisteet olivat lähes uutta vastaavia eikä niitä tarvinnut alkaa tilaamaan mistään.  Näin korjaus tapahtui muutamassa tunnissa.

Korjauksessa ei käytetty yhtäkään osto-osaa.  Tiivisteetkin on helppo tehdä itse.

Here is the restored  master cylinger.  The hose connector was used just to fill a hole in the cover.  I can't figure our any reason for drilling that hole.  I put a nice brass plug in the same place after rethreading a proper sized hole for it.  Luckily all the seals were as new and so this stage lasted only few hours.

No parts had to be purchased and even the gaskets are easy to made by yourself.

Tässä koko paketti kasassa polkimineen.  Sen pystyy asentamaan takaisin polkimet paikallaan, mikä helpottaa hommaa huomattavasti.  Polkimien välykset on huomattavasti helpompi säätää verstaassa kuin ahtaassa autossa.

Here is the complete package finished.  You can install is with the pedals in place.  The pedals needed some adjustments with extra shims and this was easy to do in the workshop instead of doing it in the car.

Jarruputkien teko / Making brake pipes

The snowboll effect continues: new master cylinder needs new pipes!  The old ones were installed interestingly and didn't use them as sample at all.
 

Putkien teossa tarvitaan melko vähän työkaluja ja alkuun pääsee halvoillakin 'Bilteman' työkaluilla.  Kuvassa näkyvä kartiointityökalu ja taivutinpihdit ovat UK:sta tilattuja hieman parempia versioita.  Biltemasta löytyy sitten putkea, tuumakokoisia liittimiä ja putkenpidikkeitä.

Putkea myydään 5 m kiepeissä ja sitä tuleekin olla runsaasti yli lasketun tarpeen, koska välillä syntyy sutta ja pitää tehdä putki uudestaan.

You don't need much tools in making brake pipes and you can use some cheap set. The flaring tool and bending pliers here are a little bit better quality.  Pipe and connectors can be bought from any automotive shop.

Remember to have more pipe than actually needed.  Often you must redo a pipe...

Putken teko aloitetaan laittamalla liityntämutteri putkeen (koko riippuu autosta, mutta Brittiautoissa 3/8").  Tämän jälkeen putken päähän tehdään kaksoiskartio kartiointityökalun avulla.  Kuvassa putken päätä ollaan levittämässä eli ulkopuolen kartiointi on jo tehty. Kartointityökalut poikkeavat käyttötavoiltaan toisistaan, joten katso sen ohjeista miten työ tehdään.  Perusperiaate on kuitenkin aina sama.

Making the pipe is started by inserting the connector into the pipe. Size of it depends on car model but most British cars have 3/8" connectors.  After this the end of the pipe is flared.

There are many kinds of flaring tools and you must follow their instructions.  The basic process principle is about the same regardless of the tool.

Putkitus alkaa kiinnittämällä edellä tehty liitos lähtöpisteeseen - tässä tapauksessa kytkimen pääsylinteriin.  Putkea on perässä koko 5 m kieppi jottei taatusti lopu kesken.  Etukäteen on mahdotonta päätellä paljonko putkea kuluu, koska putken reitti voi olla hyvinkin monimutkainen.

Ensimmäiset mutkat ovat kriittisimmät ja vaativat usein tiukkojakin mutkia. Kaikki tiukat mutkat tulee tehdä taivutuspihdeillä - isommat varovasti käsin taivutusjousta hyvksikäyttäen.

Piping is started by connecting the just made connector to the starting point - in this case the clutch master cylinder.  There is 5 meters of pipe here as you never know how much will be needed.  There will be several bendings and routing the pipe can be very complicated.

The first benginds are the most critical and require ofter very tight curves.  You need to use the bending pliers.  Bend pipe by hand only when forming larger curves.

Tässä valmiina pääsylinteriltä lähtevät kytkin- ja jarruputket.  Reititys on varsin hankala ja koko ajan täytyy ottaa huomioon, mitä lisälaitteita tulee vielä asentaa putken reitille.  Lyhin reitti on harvoin mahdollinen.  Putket on kiinnitetty kumisuojatuilla rst-pannoilla koriin sopivin välimatkoin.  Yleensä putki on kiinni korissa mutta oma mielipiteeni on, että putken tulee olla hieman irti jotta se on helpompi pitää puhtaana.

Kiinnikkeiden kanssa kannattaa hyödyntää olemassaolevia reikiä eikä porata uusia.
En porannut yhtään uutta reikää putkituksessa - laiska mikä laiska.

Here are the pipes from the clutch and brake master cylinder. Routing is quite complicated as you must keep remembering what accessories are still missing.  I fixed temporarily the missing parts (heater fan, fuse box etc) while planning the route.   This routing is not like the original but maybe better like this.  Hose clips are used to attach the pipe to the car body.  I used stainless steel ones - not classic but last forever.

You should utilize as much as possible the existing holes/fixing bolts to fix the clips. I didn't have to drill any new holes during this process - lazy is lazy does.

Virranjakaja / Distributor

Autossa ei olekaan alkuperäinen jakaja vaan se on vaihdettu jossain vaiheessa MK III:n 45D4 jakajaan (1500 cc).   Eihän sitä tyyppimerkintää sieltä rasvaisesta jakajasta löytynyt.

Midget MK1 has Lucas 25D distributor and MG used it with two cover variations: leads from top of leads from side.  Mine is the the top version and so I ordered all possible service parts for 25D. 

Once again I identified a Lucas distributor wrongly.  My car has not the original type but instead MK III's 45D4 distributor (1500cc).  Mr. Lucas marked his distributors with very small type letters and it is almost impossible to find them under all this grease and dirt.
 

Kunnostin silti jakajan ja vaihteeksi pitkän kaavan mukaisesti: 100%:sti osiksi, kunnostus + kiillotus + kasaus.
Nyt vain tilaamaan tähän jakajatyyppiin kärjet, kondensaattori, pyörijä, ...

Aikomus on tehdä PDF-juttu kunnostamisesta sillä sen tekeminen ei ole kovin vaikeaa kunhan on huolellinen.

I reconditioned the distributor even being of 'wrong' type.  Just as usual: 100% dismantling, restoration, polishing and so on.  Now I must order once againg all service parts and wait for them to arrive from UK!!

I plan to write a PDF story about all the stages needed here.

Mikä moottori? / Which engine?

Kannen valusta löytyy lupaava merkintä 12G940 tarkoittaa kannen rakennetyyppiä.  12G940 on virittämisen suhteen yksi parhaista versioista ja käytetty mm. Mini Cooper S-mallissa.   Lohkon valusta  löytyy vastaavasti 12G 2398.  Kaiken 'helpon' tunnistamisen  pilaa kuitenkin öljynsuodatin.  Missä mallissa se on 45° ylöspäin ja nykyaikaisella suodattimella ilman mitään sovittimia?

Tässä viikon pähkänä ratkottavaksi.  Mikä moottori ja mistä autosta? 
Vastaus: Morris Marina

My car should have a BMC 1098cc A-series engine  An alarming bell had rung a long time in my mind whether the car has the correct engine type.  A-series engines are used in almost all British cars from Mini to Morris Marina.  Engine has a plate with stamped code: 12V EH 458292.   I tried to inteprete the code but without success.  Main issue here is that the engine is 1275cc as the digits '12' tell.

The engine head has a promising type marking 12G940 meaning it is for 1275cc and used for example in Mini Cooper S.  12G940 is one of the best versions for tuning.  The engine block has marking 12G 2398.  The oil filter ruines all the 'easy' hints.  Which version has a modern oil filter installed 45° upwards without any adapters?

Trivia of the week: which motor and from which car model this originally is?
Answer: Morris Marina
 

Moottorin huollon ja varaosien takia on koneen tyyppi ihan mukava tietää.  Olisihan tullut tilattua mm. väärät tiivistesarjat.  Moottoria piti varoiksi purkaa hieman lisää, jotta saisin sen tyypin varmistettua.  Lohkon valustakin löytyi lopulta 12-merkintä joten kyllä se on 1275cc - pakko jo uskoa.

Purkamisen aikana laitoin venttiilikopan toisen projektini moottorin päälle ettei se hukkuisi.  On tuo Jaguar MK2:n 2.4 litrainen kone aavistuksen isompi.

For servicing purposes it is generally speaking good to know the engine's type.  I almost ordered new gaskets for 'my' 1098cc engine.  I had to dismantle the engine a little bit in order to get more evidence of the engine's correcrt type.  Finally I found '12' marking on the casting on the engine block. Yes, it is 1275cc.

I located the cylinder head cover on top of my Jaguar MK2 engine for storing.  The size of the 2.4 liter MK2 engine gets in correct proportion in this picture.

Kaasuttimet / Carburators

Laturi / Dynamo

Alunperin laturin päätylaipat ovat alumiininväriset eivätkä mustat kuten tässä.  Maalaus oli lisäksi tehty ilman kummempia pohjatöitä ja maalit irtosivat lähes itsekseen (mitä nyt hieman Nitromorsia apuna).

As predicted I just had to dismantle some parts from the engine.  This time they were the dynamo, starter motor and radiator.  The dynamo (Lucas C40) looked Ok as it was painted black.  Luckily I dismantled it totally and cleaned it.  The unit was not in working condition and the bearings were in bad shape. Originally only the iron body and pulley should be painted and not the aluminium parts.  The painting was easy to remove as no primer had been used.

The previous owner must have wondered why the battery is almost always empty.  No wonder as one of brushes was misplaced and the wire broken.  I have no clue how this has been possible but with Lucas  everything seems to be.  The pulley missed one 'wing' and one was almost broken.  It would have interesting to see what would have happened if the broken wing would have been broken totally in full speed!
 

Vaihteeksi korostui huolellisen puhdistuksen merkitys.  Sieltä lian ja ruosteen alta löytyy pienimmätkin viat ja hyödylliset tyyppitiedot jne.

Here is the C40 dismantled.  Pretty simple job if you have good nerves and patience.  The unit has been serviced by some of the previous owners.  Unless Mr. Lucas has used a bearing marked with 'Made in Japan'.

Once again the importance of proper cleaning showed it's importance.  After that you could spot even the smallest faults and also the so important product codes.

Nyt sitten odotellaan uusia hiiliä Kotkasta (Brittiosa) ja intoa maalata teräsosat mustiksi. 
PDF-muodossa löytyy vaihekohtaisia yksityiskohtia täältä ...

The parts had my standard treatment with sand blasting ja polishing with a steel wire brush.  The bearing was soaked in petrol for a hour.  After this all the old grease and dirt were gone.  Finally the bearing was left soaking in oil.  Now the bearing works like new.  The small oil hole at the communator end bracked opened quite easily with 7 bar air blast...

Now the unit is waiting for new brushes and motivation to paint it to black.

Vesipumppu / Water pump

Reparing a water pump is the most easiest thing in the world: buy always a new one!  They don't cost much.  It is very difficult to determine whether the old unit is working properly.  Of course I just had to dismantle the pump just for fun!  True men don't need guides and manuals ...
 

Tässä vesipumppu sananmukaisesti osina.  Hihnapyörän laipasta on valtaosa jossain verstaan nurkissa murusina.   Purkaminen kylläkin kannatti, sillä laakerien suojakumit olivat täysin hapertuneet. Itse laakeria en saanut purettua, koska kantti ei kestänyt katsella hydrauliprässin painelukemia.  Akseli ei hievahtanutkaan 8 tonnin kohdalla ja itse prässi alkoi taipumaan.  Prässin kyllä pitäisi kestää 12 tonnia kiinalaisten mielestä.

Here is the water pump literally in parts.  The parts of the pulley flange are somewhere around my workshop.  Well, it was worth dismantling as the bearing seals were worn out.  I couldn't get the main axle removed from the bearing.  My guts couldn't handle the pressure figure showing here : 8 metric tons and no movement.  In theory (Chinese) the press should handle upto 12 tons.

Jäähdytin / Radiator

Syyläri ei näyttänyt pahemmin vuotavan, mutta 'pienen' hiekkapuhalluksen jälkeen totesin yläosassa olevan tulpan olevan liimattu hartsilla kiinni.  Ilmiselvästi pikafixi ja ei muuta kuin koko syyläri tarkempaan tutkintaan.  Korjaus on tehty nähtävästi jo Kaliforniassa 'Thousand Oaks Radiator':ssa.   Tina on ainakin ollut siellä halpaa, sillä sitä oli käytetty oikein olan takaa.  

The radiator didn't seem to leak but after some sand blasting I found out that one of the plugs was glued in place with epoxy.  Well, once again some fast fix meaning the whole radiator had to be checked.  This time the fixing has been made already in California as the plate says 'Thoursand Oaks Radiator'.  Lead must have been cheap as it had been used in thick layers.

Enpä ollut koskaan tinaillut syyläriä mutta ajattelin että nyt on aika kokeilla sitäkin.  Korjauttaminen olisi maksanut varmaan > 100€ ja olisi pitänyt lähettää Hesaan tai Tamperelle.  Pari viikkoa olisi saanut vaihteeksi odotella tätäkin osaa takaisin.

Once again it was time to collect the leading equipment.  They are the same as used in car body leading.  That white staff is tallow which is used to lubricate the wooden pad before spreading the lead with it.

I had never soldered a radiator before but I thought that it is good time to practice it.  Sending it for fixing would have costed a lot and it would have taken few weeks before getting it back.
 

I wondered for a while purpose of this plug and decided that it is not useful.  I replaced the plug with standard 3/8" bronze plug and made some threading to the whole in the radiator.  The tap is NPT not R meaning the thread is getting tighter as your tighten the plug.  It was much easier to lead the plug in place after this.

Lopuksi jäähdytin vietiin maalausosastolle noin metrin päähän.  Maalauskaappi oli tällä kertaa hieman ahdas, mutta kyllä pohjamaalin sai tässäkin ruiskumaalattua.  Pahimmat lommot oli tasoitettu tinalla joten kummempia fillereitä ei tarvinnut käyttää.

Lopullinen maalaus tulee kiiltäväksi mustaksi.  Tämä on tarkoitus tehdä vasta juuri ennen kasausvaihetta, jotta maalaus ei turhaan naarmuunnu. 

Finally the radiator was moved to the paint shop about one meter away.  The paint booth was a little to small for the radiator but I managed to spray the primer despite this shortcoming.   The major dents had already been filled with lead and thus no filler was needed.

The final painting will be done with high gloss black. 

Verhoilusta / Interior trimming

Replacing the trimming was the original target of this project!  Being lazy I ordered trim panels from UK as they are not so expensive and sometimes are even original looking.  At one stage I had three different sets at hand.  None of them was good enough in quality and had to return two of them.  One of them was obtained from Moss as I thought they sell good quality parts only - well not in this case.

Tässä setti jonka lopulta kelpuutin lähtökohdaksi.  Hyvinä puolina olivat laadukas keinonahka, taipuisa taustapahvi, melko siistit leikkaukset ja se että laittoivat solumuovin keinonahan alle tätä pyydettäessäni. Pahin bugi oli, että eivät olleet käyttäneet liimaa keinonahan reunojen kiinnittämisessä - niittejä senkin edestä.  Kuvassa on avattu yhden panelin verhoilua koska pelkillä niiteillä ei tällaista mutkaa saa siistiksi.  Ei muuta kuin liimaten ja taitteet uudelleen leikaten.

This is the set I had to accept.  It had pretty good quality vinyl and nice cuttings.  They even used foam under the vinyl when I asked for it (originally vinyl is clued direcytly to the board).  The major 'bug' was that they hadn't used clue when attaching the vinyl edges to the board.  Intead plentiful of staples were used.

On the left you can see one panel where the inside curve is being fixed.  It needed some recutting so it didn't wrinkle while being clued.  Only a few staples was needed after cluing.

Asioitahan ei opi kuin kokeilemalla käytännössä ja virheistä viisastuu (olen siis nero).  Jos homma olisi mennyt pieleen en olisi menettänyt kuin pätkät keinonahkaa ja hermoni.  Nyt toinen kerta toden sanoi.

This is something nobody will believe: I have sewn the trims for the rear wheel arches all by myself!!  The set contained a version without the curve.  I would have been impossible to get a piece like that in place without wrinkles.  I estimated that with my extremely limited sewing skills, there would be 5% chances to get them done.

Sauma oli hieman hankala tehdä koska pitää ommella kahteen kertaan. Oppikirjana toimi valmistajan toimittama kappale.  Sen ompelu oli ensiluokkaista.  Oikealla oleva oma saumani ei yllä aivan samalle tasolle, mutta eroa ei huomaa kuin läheltä katsoessa.

The seam was quite difficult to sew as you had to sew it twice.  I learned the tricks by studying the original piece having excellent sewings.  On the right is my version.  Not quite so classy but you see the difference only by looking it very closely.

The carpet set I boght from Chart One Automotive (UK) was of good quality and had mostly good fit.  However, the piece around the gearbox tunnel was far from good fit.  The tunnel is not symmetric as you can see from the left picture.  The carpet is symmetric causing the left side look like this.  Fixing this need a lot of frustrating extra work.  One would assume that bying a standard carpet set that it fits without expensive re-trimming.  After my complaint Chart One suggested using a professional trimmer. That would cause a lot of extra costs and reason for buying this set was saving costs!  Funny thing is that the 'non-standard' underfelt that came with the set had a perfect fit here.
 

Moottorin irroitus / Engine removal

After all I had to remove the engine and gearbox in order to study properly their condition.  Removal itselft is quite easy with a proper engine lift.  The working conditions were far from perfect: outdoors, dark, -8°C and snow.  The job had to be done outdoors as the garage is full of parts and there is no room for the engine hoist.

Vaihdelaatikko / Gearbox

Samalla selvisi syykin öljyvuotoon:  vaihdelaatikon kannatinkumit olivat irronneet liimauksistaan, koska alakumi oli väärin kiinnitetty.  Laatikko ravisti nyt sen verran, että stefa falskasi jatkuvasti. Todennäköisesti tätä vikaa oli etsitty jo vuonna 1995, mutta ei ymmärretty sen voivan johtua näin pienestä jutusta.

The gearbox leaked quite heavily oil at the rear end.  Bristish cars always leak oil but too much is too much.  Those who know me, can guess what happened next.  This time I decided to do the job totally myself even having several friends who do these for living.  You had to be extra careful during dismantling as there are not much spareparts available for this gearbox model.  Luckily Moss has all the gaskets and most of the bearings.   The gearbox had been opened some 15 years ago and maybe for the same reason.  Actually the problem was the rear supporting rubbers.  The bottom one was wrongly installed and caused the other two supports to brake apart.  The gearbox had then vibrated vigorously causing the rear seal to wear quickly out.
 

Etujarrut / Front brakes

As the workshop was full of semi-finished assembled parts waiting for some parts from UK, I once again had time to dismantlu more parts from the car.  This time I chose a full proof target: front brake calibers.  Without any exception old cars have the problem: pistons get stuck due to rusting.  It was very difficult to remove the brake pads as one of the pistons was so stuck it didn't move at all.

Kuten kuvasta näkyy, on sylinteritila täynnä rasvaista möhnää ja jopa hiekkaa!  Ei ihme, että sylinteri ei liikkunut, kun ei se irronnut kuin tuurnalla ja lekalla.  Hämmästyttävää kyllä, sylinterin pinnat olivat lähes sileät eli ruostuminen oli vasta aluillaan.  Siis helppo korjaus: puhdistus, keltapassivointi ja uudet tiivisteet.  Yleensä kylläkin kannattaa ostaa kokonaan uudet sylinterit, mutta tulipa kokeiltua tätäkin.

As you can see the cylinder is full of greasy 'stuff', water and even sand.  No wonder it didn't move anywhere.  Only way to get the piston out, was to use a sfiff rod and (sledge) hammer.  Suprisingly nor the cylinder or piston were not badly corroded.  So it would be an easy fix: cleaning, electroplating and new seals.  In general it is better to buy totally new ones instead of restoring badly worn old ones.

Alkuun/Top

Vaihdelaatikon kasaaminen / Gearbox assembling

Kasaus tapahtui maalaisjärjestelmällä ja kuuluisalla yritys-erehdys menetelmällä.  Olenkin jo melkoinen guru kasaamisessa koska tein sen todella moneen kertaan ennenkuin laatikko pelasi moitteetta.

According to service manuals the gearbox has only a few parts and so I was quite confident that I could easily assemble it. Wrong! It is easy to put in all the parts but the problem is in which specific order and exactly how. Manuals were not very helpful (Haynes and original BMC) as their insturctions were like 'install the first gear to the axle and then the 2nd ...'   Haynes manual even had some severe mistakes and thus I threw all instructions away.  Then started the famous 'trial-error' assembling.  At the moment I'm a guru with MG gearboxes as I did the job at least five times before everything was functioning properly.

Here is the first gear into the main axle.  It took one evening to achieve this!  That bloody spring loaded locking peg is not so easy to compress and at the same time press the locking plate over it.   It took quite a while to find properlly improvised tools for this.

The following gear had two locking pegs but it took only some hours to get it in place.  Here is my nightmare: gear with three spring loaded gearballs.  I didn't happen to have the BMC special tool but instead used a plastic wire strapper.  Quite cheap and functioned perfectly!

Here are all the three gearbox axles with gears installed.  All bearings are new except the most critical main axle bearings.  Couldn't find them at any store (not even at Moss UK).  Luckily they were in pretty good shape.

Ja tämänhän homman jokainen kaveri muistaa tehdä - eikös juu?  Siellähän öljyssä lilluu pronssilaakeri 24 tunnin ajan ennen asennusta.  Kuumassa öljyssä homma hoituisi 2 tunnissa.

And here is a stage every guy remembers to do before installing it?  The bronze bearing bush is soaking in engine oil for 24 hours before putting in place.  In hot oil it would take only 2 hours.

Suprisingly the most tedious stage was adjusting the gear changing levers.  There are plenty of springs and bearing balls for this purporse.  In general it is desirable the gear to stay on (stiffness) but on the other hand easily changable (loose) without annoying noises (tolerances).  I spent a whole night for this job only!   Luckily for me. it is impossible to get and old car's gearbox adjusted very smoothly working.
 

And here is the completed gearbox.  All rubber parts are replaces - specially the rear support ones. Also the clutch slave cylinder assemble in in place for testing.

Apusylinterin tangon reikä oli hieman soikea ja tämän takia kytkin toimi epämääräisesti kolisten.  Pikafiksi: 10mm reikä ja tilalle 10 mm Cu-vesi-putkesta pusla.  Kestänee ainakin jonkin aikaa.

Slave cylinder's push rod's hole was not so round anymore causing adjusting problems.  Quick fix: drill a 10mm hole and push a 10mm copper pipe through as a 'bush'.

Moottoritilan maalaus / Painting engine bay

I didn't sand off all the old paint off but instead only from places that a typical ones to corrode.   Next stage was red epoxyprimer and finally 75% matted black.  In the picture the paint is wet and looks too glossy.
After drying I noticed that the black paint should have been more matt - maybe 50%. 

Uusi moottori / New engine

While the engine was removed, it was a good oppurtunity to tune it.  I already started to modify the engine head when I realised that 'someone' had changed there oversizes valves from Nissan.  They were biggest ones you can fit to an A-series engine.  They were useless as nothing else had been done to the engine at all.  Instead the oversized valves had caused power loss and excess fuel consumption.  Once again there was a choice to be made: make an expensive and laboursome repair youself or buy a new engine.  I chose the later and bought a Stage2/Fast Road tuned engine from Moss UK.  The engine was shipped painted black but I painted it 'sporty' red.

Painting the engine block is quite simple: clean, clean, ..., epoxyprimer and finally normal 2K car paint.  The color is actually Ford Zephyr's red as I happened to have that paint left.

There will also be a Weber DCOE 40 carburator, electronic ignition, fuel pump and Kenlow cooling fan.  That's why there are no blades in the water pump pulley.